Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Top Beauty Trends for 2011

For spas and clients alike, beauty trends are an exciting glimpse at what many love about the beauty industry—the innovations, the breakthroughs and the flat-out amazing discoveries that work to make women and men even more beautiful. In 2010, the biggest beauty trends prove that where beauty is concerned, a little of the old can be as trendy as a lot of the new, and clients are eager to kick-start this new decade of beauty with fun; a goal you can help them achieve by working with the following trends.

The tools of the road
Tools are fascinating, and nowhere are they garnering more attention than in the beauty world. And although clients aren’t going to go so far as to forsake their estheticians, for today’s beauty trendster, do-it-yourself (DIY) beauty tools are an increasingly popular skin care bridge between spa visits. Hair removal, extreme exfoliation, laser line reversal and even at-home light therapy for hyperpigmentation all are becoming more and more mainstream, and savvy beauty companies are jumping on board. From prestige to mass, the trend for DIY at-home beauty is only just beginning to reach its full potential as a building block to spa services.

The little antioxidant that could
Antioxidants have made a name for themselves in the beauty world that few ingredients can match. Given their prevalence in every type of skin care product and treatment, it might be presumed that the antioxidant’s time in the sun had passed—however, it hasn’t. Antioxidants are here to stay, and now their anti-aging and overall well-being benefits are being added to more items than just skin care. Makeup brands are embracing the power of antioxidants in eye shadow, lipstick, foundation, and even mascara and eye liner. In addition to protecting the skin from environmental damage, many antioxidant makeup products also boast anti-aging and wrinkle-reversing properties, as well. For today’s typical über-busy woman, the multibenefit aspect of antioxidant makeup is not only a hot trend; it’s a smart trend, as well, so it is your job as a spa professional to educate clients about the importance of antioxidants.

In the tween of things
Teenagers, it may seem, spend a good deal of their time feeling entitled, but perhaps they are onto something. The tween and teen skin care trend is one area where young adults might just have every reason to feel entitled. Faced with record levels of stress, responsibility and opportunity, today’s teenagers also deal with growing numbers of acne outbreaks, skin problems and unprecedented exposure to environmental damage. Although not necessarily a new trend in 2010, the need for skin care that is formulated to expressly meet the needs of this unique group of individuals is one of the most exciting trends that continues to gain momentum. These days, brands aren’t just paying lip service to this category, either. Today’s suppliers have made advancements in ingredients, formulation, delivery methods and even packaging that truly provide a benefit to young skin, and help prep these beauty newbies for long-term skin care success. Not yet ready for their mother’s favorite products, yet definitely in need of more than soap and water, skin care and cosmetic lines that offer carefully edited products specifically tailored to benefit young skin are timely, effective and here to stay.

Technology for wow
Another exciting trend that is poised to be hot in 2010 is the rise of unique applicator systems for color cosmetics. Not content to merely offer consumers the same old options as in the past, today’s cosmetics brands are rolling out technologically advanced applicators and formulas that promise photo-finish application and precision; and high-definition results never seen before. Sound too good to be true? Maybe not. Some brands are beginning to offer products with unique features, such as a futuristic paint-roller applicator that seamlessly applies makeup to the skin or a roller-ball applicator for an antioxidant-enriched formula designed to minimize fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Foundation isn’t the only product to sport such cutting-edge technology. A new mascara on the market features an oscillating wand that provides an application so precise that the results are said to rival the lush appearance of false lashes. Photo-finish results for everyday wear are on trend and on time.


The rise of the eyes

After the tumultuous energy of the past two years, consumers are looking to 2010 to be the start of a fresh, new, bright beginning, and eye shadow trends appear to be leading the way. From look-at-me smoky to the ephemerally popular nude, eye makeup is once again big in 2010, and only trending to get bigger. Gone are traditional interpretations of these looks, and in their place are color options that breathe new life into old favorites: funky purples, peacock greens and bold corals give smoky eyes an edge, while shimmering golds, buttercup yellows and spring-fresh lilacs make the nude eye anything but vanilla. And it doesn’t stop there—a renewed focus on brows is also taking shape, with products to groom, fill, shape and even grow brows popping up in every sector.

Glam-for-less
Glamonomics is here. Trending to be even bigger this year than last, the consumer demand for high quality-yet-affordable beauty indulgences is hot. No longer willing to pay top dollar for every single product in their makeup bags, women are seeking more affordable cosmetic options that can be supplemented with special indulgences from time to time, and beauty brands are bringing their A-game to answer this call. Private label products allow clients to purchase items at a lower price than most skin care lines and allow for the branding of the business at the same time; a win-win situation. Even high-end skin care brands are getting into the game, creating specialty sets and product options that give consumers the indulgence they crave at a more affordable price. No longer can brands presume consumers will stick with their favorite product no matter the cost. In 2010, she’s also going to indulge her inner glamazon in an affordable, fun way.

Advancements and fun
The consumer thirst for increasingly more innovative and exotic beauty products and technology is, by now, well-known to most brands. As the beauty industry continues to recover from the economic turmoil of the past few years, savvy brands will continue to try and stay ahead of this bell curve by leveraging what has worked, what is working, and what needs to be working in order to give consumers the products, services and innovations they seek. The trends for 2010 reflect this outlook, keeping beauty on the move, and in-the-now with unique product offerings, amazing advancements in formulations and flat-out fun.

Natural and Organic

Malie Organics is spreading its roots in organic personal care products with the reformulation of its Pikake personal care collection.


During the past 20 years or so, many personal care formulations have evolved from synthetic to natural to organic. But the creators of the Malie line have reduced that evolution cycle to only a couple of years—make that 18 months. After just a year and a half of research, the company has rolled out an organic version of its Pikake personal care collection.

And to think, it all started with a quality of life issue.

After their kids were born, Dana and Shaun Roberts wanted to get them away from the “shopping-center mentality” that dominates the U.S. mainland. Their quest for a less consumer-centric lifestyle led them to Hawaii and the founding of Malie (pronounced: Mah-lee-ay, which means “calm serene tranquil”), a personal care company that utilizes the natural ingredients indigenous to the archipelago.

“Using the worldwide web, we were inspired by the nature and plants that were here,” recalled Dana.

At first, Malie offered linen mists, room sprays and hand soaps, but since its founding in 2004, the company’s product line has grown to include anti-aging creams, body washes, butters, soaps and many other grooming staples.

“We learned pretty quickly, say in the first six months or so, that the boutiques wanted body creams and related products. It didn’t take long before we realized that we were in the spa niche,” Dana said.

Once they had found their niche, Dana and Shaun wanted to create products that were organic too. But they found out that their options were limited.

“Six years ago, we couldn’t find organic ingredients,” said Dana. “So we launched the company using natural ingredients. But we realized that we should be on the forefront of organic movement and moved from natural to organic ingredients.”

That decision has put some stress on its supplier base, but Malie relies on a network of 20 suppliers who earn their living on the Islands.

Just last month, the company announced the completion of a three-year transition from natural to organic beauty with the relaunch of Malie Organics’ Pikake Collection. The Pikake Flower is a Hawaiian jasmine. Malie Organics captures the essence of Pikake by distilling the flowers into Hawaiian Hydrosols for a beautiful collection of products.

According to Dana, Malie’s Hawaiian Hydrosols utilize Pikake’s botanical benefits at the molecular level, capturing the true essence and very soul of the flower.

The Pikake collection includes an organic body cream, organic body wash, organic body polish, organic luxe butter soap, organic mist, organic liquid hand soap, soy candle and island ambiance reed diffuser.

A Big Year

While some company executives would have killed for a 6% sales gain in a recession-plagued 2009, Dana says she was disappointed in those results, noting that many retailers were “ultra conservative” in their game plans. But, so far, 2010 results are promising, with sales increasing 24%, due in large part to big gains in Japan. No wonder why Dana is confident about the future, insisting that there will be no double dip and pointing to the fact that her lead times have doubled as the economy has improved. At the same time, she’s confident that Malie Organics will continue to grow.

“For companies where the owners are involved and the products are unique, those brands are growing,” she insisted.

Now, Malie Organics is developing products based on orchid distillation. The company has teamed up with researchers at the University of Hawaii to create new scents based on flower essences.

The Next Big Thing?

Another unique idea whose time has come is KonaRed Coffee Fruit, a new venture developed by Shaun and manufactured and marketed through KonaRed Coffee Fruit & Sandwich Isles Trading Co. This ingredient, a byproduct from the harvest of Kona coffee on the Big Island, is rich in antioxidants. Three raw materials are available to formulators: whole powder (available in 14, 40, 80 and 100 mesh), freeze dried powder (100% water soluble) and liquid extract (100% water soluble).

According to the company, KonaRed polyphenols contain properties that:

• Help fight inflammation;
• Neutralize toxic free radicals that cause aging and disease;
• Fight free radical damage;
• Provide exceptional nutrition;
• Provide anti-viral and anti-bacterial benefits;
• Help protect against systemic oxidative stress;
• Help resist sun damage;
• Boost mood and energy;
• Curb the appetite;
• Help reduce the incidence of oxidative pathologies such as coronary heart disease, inflammation and possibly even certain cancers; and
• Provide health benefits associated with glucose management, Type 2 diabetes and metabolic syndrome, depression and anxiety and oral health.

In fact, KonaRed Coffee Fruit has an ORAC score of 407,600 per 100 grams—a score that is significantly higher than any known plant product, including blueberry and açai.

With a firm commitment to organic materials and an eye on novel ingredients, Dana and Shaun Roberts are confident in their company and their futures.

“We’re growing faster than we can supply product,” observed Dana. “Next year will be a strong year, too.”

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Future of Beauty

In honor of the Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management Master’s Degree program at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), the annual Capstone presentation focused on Beauty 2020: The Future of Beauty. In an attempt to help the beauty industry understand the long-term effects of the new economy, the presentations addressed the consumer, manufacturer, and retail universes through the year 2020.

Alumni Association Chairs, Vivianna Barrera, L’Oreal USA, Matrix; Kate Foster, Juicy Couture, and Rebecca Heck, Firmenich, Inc., provided an overview of the Master’s program, which fosters interpersonal connection and leadership, empowerment, and innovation, to inspire change in the industry. Dr. Joyce Brown, President, FIT, welcomed attendees and highlighted the program’s Leadership in Action program, as well as the creation of the Alumni Association, whose members are already vice presidents of cosmetic companies, including Coty and others. She also acknowledged FIT’s partnership with The Wharton School, as well as the recent tribute to 10 of FIT graduates, at the FiFi Finalist breakfast.

“The FIT Master’s Program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management serves as a juncture between academia and the industry,” explained Brown.

In addition, Brown noted the upcoming industry breakfast, which will celebrate the 19th Anniversary of the program, by honoring Marc Pritchard, chief brand building officer, Procter & Gamble and Linda Wells, editor in chief, Allure, on September 22, 2010.

Leadership, Sustainability and Innovation

Chris Hacker, chief design officer, global strategic design, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., delivered the keynote address, saying, “We are delighted to sponsor this 10th anniversary program, which helps people develop as senior leaders. My colleagues and I believe in the value of this program.” He highlighted a dominant theme emphasizing sustainability, transparent consumer experiences, and the premise of delivering and executing innovative ideas for the future.

Rochelle Bloom, president, The Fragrance Foundation, introduced the first Capstone topic, The Future of Fragrance, presenting graduates, Shiri Sarfati, Lisa Negrelli, Jessica Wolfe and Monika Ziobro, who provided insights into the vitality of the future of fragrance. Sarfati noted that there were 1,000 fragrance launches in 2009, 300 of them in the U.S., and while 2009 fragrance sales were down, there was strong support of the classics, with 7 out of 10 purchases being classic fragrances.

The students provided a series of platforms with which fragrance of the future might be approached, including Eau Share, which emphasized the importance of developing a scent vocabulary, enabling scent to help childhood development, and encouraging consumers to become the true storytellers about fragrance. Eau Network was an idea that encourages consumers to share their stories about, and experiences with, fragrance, much like The Food Network, which has contributed to creating a community approach to food creation, sourcing, experimentation, and expertise. Eau Juice, entailed the ingredient story, noting it was time to re-engage consumers with descriptive, recognizable stories.

Speakers (l-r): Chris Hacker, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies; Rochelle Bloom, The Fragrance Foundation; Michele Serro, IDEO, New York; Dr. Joyce Brown, President, FIT; Carlotta Jacobson, president, Cosmetic Executive Women; Lezlee Westine, Personal Care Products Council and Stephan Kanlian, chairperson, Master’s Program, FIT.
It’s the quality of the juice that will bring the customers back, the panel noted, saying that the time has come to connect with the next generation of “Scentennials,” by offering fragrances and experiences that they can relate to and enjoy. They also urged dropping the negative term, “synthetic,” and presenting “eau molecules,” as an alternative, within a technologically derived scent context.

Eau Space denoted the future of fragrance, which would be expressed in stores via lifestyle stories and moods, rather than brand names; and Eau Bars would be attended by Certified Fragrance Specialists that could offer direction, as well as opportunity to be immersed in “Fragrance Pods,” where customers would be transported virtually to lavender fields, hear directly from a perfumer, arrange a fragrance class or workshop, or book a flight to Grasse!

The subject of Retail came next, with a musical video admonition to the tune of Malvina Reynolds’ Little Boxes, a tuneful discourse on the drab nature of sameness. Fragrance needs to be antithetical to the concept of “little boxes on the hillside, made of ticky-tacky, and all looking the same…” Indeed, the point of the presentation, introduced by Michele Serro, practice leader, IDEO, New York, and presented by Group Leader, Yumiko Nishikawa, and Maura Cannon, Jennifer Marino, and Denee Pearson, emphasized the need to entice, engage and entertain. To evolve retail, it is important to understand that the days of excessive shopping are over, and retailers must employ better means of communication, embrace change, and provide digital services, which offer tangible results.

Among the latest practices cited were the “I-Runway,” where brands can be accessed and purchased on personal electronic devices, or the availability of experiential shopping experiences.

According to the panel, “Retailers must cater to the behavior of millennials, who say, ‘show me, don’t tell me,’ and provide the tools, as well as honesty and transparency, to help the new customers connect. Let consumers sit in the driver’s seat, utilize phone applications and connect with a broad spectrum of consumers with ‘Click and Brick’ touch points.”

They urged that every possible touch point be utilized, from traditional retail to social media, and that they must be integrated, reminding attendees, “Remember, no one wants to be a little box on the hillside.”

The Future of Leadership, introduced by Carlotta Jacobson, president, Cosmetic Executive Women, presented Marixsa Rodriguez, group leader, and Carly Guerra, Lea Koussolis, and Caroline Ornst, who emphasized community, agility, information flow, whole brain approaches, co-creation, and collaboration in the new workplace. The Future of Beauty, introduced by Lezlee Westine, president, Personal Care Products Council, featured group leader, Nichole Kirtley, and group members, Marta Cammarano, Mariangela Gisonda, Jennifer King, and Beatriz Loizillon. Interestingly, this session debunked the myth of the “superwoman,” and framed the concept of beauty in a more pragmatic way, rooting it in reality and personal identity.

“Today’s woman embraces her perfectly imperfect self,” noted Cammarano. It was foretold that the woman of the future wants to have a real conversation between brands, seeking the products that reflect her unique beauty needs.

Clearly, the future will demand new interaction and a reciprocal dialogue to keep apace with the changing consumer population. The students also emphasized the need for the new beauty to support responsibility, safety, and sustainability, urging philanthropy, intelligent consumption, and education.

In addition to this year’s Scholarship Awards, honors were awarded in the following categories. Phebe Farrow Port, Senior Vice President, Global Management Strategies, Estée Lauder Companies, presented the Faculty Leadership Award to Pamela Vaile.

Outstanding Leadership Award, presented by Shashi Batra, president, Victoria’s Secret, went to Marixsa Rodriguez; and the Department Medal Award, presented by Mark Polson, executive director, innovation/business development, Estée Lauder Companies, was awarded to Yumiko Nishikawa.

Stephan Kanlian, chairperson and associate professor, Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management, concluded the presentation, noting, “It truly takes a village to put together a program like this, which travels to three continents, and enables us to share alumni and student talents with you.”

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Estée Lauder To Acquire Smashbox Cosmetics

A move beyond department store counters for EL.

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Smashbox Beauty Cosmetics, Inc., a privately-held, photo studio-inspired prestige cosmetics company based in Los Angeles, CA.The acquisition is expected to close in July 2010, subject to certain conditions, including regulatory approval. While terms of the deal were not disclosed, the Company said that the transaction is expected to be accretive to earnings in fiscal year 2011, before transaction and integration costs.

The Smashbox brand, with its unique equity positioning, is a strategic complement to The Estée Lauder Companies’ portfolio of leading prestige cosmetic brands. Smashbox’s significant presence in assisted open-sell environments and specialty distribution channels will expand The Estée Lauder Companies’ product offerings and reach new and younger consumers in these high-growth prestige channels.Additionally, The Estée Lauder Companies will leverage its extensive international experience as it seeks to grow the brand and engage Smashbox’s expertise in digital and social media to advance its current capabilities, an important and growing competency for the Company.

Smashbox Beauty Cosmetics was founded in 1996 by brothers Dean and Davis Factor, great-grandsons of the makeup legend Max Factor, who were inspired by photo studio celebrities to create a unique makeup brand that met the highly demanding needs of a professional photo shoot.Since that time, Smashbox has established itself as a highly successful prestige cosmetics brand and a top performer in specialty channels.Currently, the majority of Smashbox’s sales are based in North America.

William P. Lauder, Executive Chairman of The Estée Lauder Companies, said, “One of the enduring strengths of The Estée Lauder Companies is our ability to identify brands with unique positioning and nurture those brands to accelerate their momentum and realize their full growth potential.The addition of Smashbox to our portfolio continues this 64-year legacy. We expect that with our strong cultural synergies and shared appreciation for family heritage, this will be a wonderful union.”

“Smashbox, like The Estée Lauder Companies, is a creativity-driven, consumer-inspired organization with great talent,” said Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer of The Estée Lauder Companies.“Adding Smashbox to our portfolio of brands will help strengthen our presence in prestige specialty channels worldwide, increase our product offerings in this important category and enhance our capabilities in digital media and direct response television. We are energized by the promising momentum of Smashbox and believe the brand will help attract new and younger consumers to The Estée Lauder Companies all over the world.”

“The Estée Lauder Companies is the ideal home for Smashbox,” said Dean Factor, co-founder and Chief Executive Officer, Smashbox Beauty Cosmetics, Inc.“The Company possesses the scale and vision to help transition Smashbox into its next phase of growth, and its track record of nurturing and growing prestige brands is second to none.Moreover, we share a similar cultural heritage and dedication to consumer-inspired innovation and creativity.We expect to benefit greatly from The Estée Lauder Companies’ extensive knowledge in product development, operational execution, and international marketing and distribution, and we look forward to the next great period of growth for the brand.”

“Smashbox is the leading Hollywood photo studio-inspired cosmetics brand with a devoted following and timeless appeal,” said John Demsey, Estée Lauder Companies’ Group President, responsible for the Estée Lauder, M•A•C, Tom Ford, Prescriptives, Bobbi Brown, Jo Malone, La Mer brands and after closing, Smashbox. “We are excited to be acquiring a uniquely positioned cosmetics brand with true talent well known for engaging consumers across prestige channels and in the digital media space. Smashbox fits perfectly within our DNA, and we look forward to continuing to delight our consumers together.”

Eco Clean Arrives in U.S.

If you want your green cleaning guaranteed, go to Scandinavia or simply have Scandinavia come to you. Eco Clean is a new cleaning product range made from pure, local Danish ingredients available at a shockingly reasonable price.

Scientist Jens Erik Hansen, acknowledged globally for developing products with low eco-toxicological profile, toiled for five years perfecting the proprietary formula called AEB (Active Eco Boost), a natural amino acid derivative. AEB solubilizes dirt and keeps it suspended in the solution, enhancing the cleaning properties while minimizing skin irritations. It goes into each of the following liquid products: All Purpose Cleaner, Bathroom Cleaner, Dish Wash, Glass Cleaner, Hand Wash and Kitchen Counter Top Cleaner.

Eco Clean is made from plant and sugar-based surfactants fragranced with fresh smelling essential oils (orange rosemary, spicy lavender and cool mint). More technically, this non-toxic range is made from sugar beets, a sustainable, renewable, readily biodegradable resource that comes from Danish farms on the island of Falster. The sugar beets are known as D-Glucopyranose, the highest quality sugar surfactant derived from fatty acids of plants.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

A Breakthrough Approach to Wellness

By Dr. Howard Murad
Murad Skincare Inc.


As a physician, I’ve spent my career searching for new ways to help my patients bring vitality to their complexions and more importantly, to their lives. Through that search I have come to discover the benefits of a breakthrough approach to wellness that uses Internal, Topical and Emotional Self Care to optimize the health of every cell in the body. I call my discovery Inclusive Health to reflect the comprehensive nature of both the care and of the transformation that can be achieved through this approach. After years of research and testing, I now have the results of several extensive studies which confirmed that the transformations I have seen represent real and lasting improvements in health and appearance.

Inclusive Health uses a three-pronged approach to address the needs of the spirit, skin and body through a systematic protocol that supports the body internally, externally and emotionally.

Internal Care creates the ideal environment within the body to protect cells and promote the creation of healthy new cells with strong membranes. This ideal environment is created through enhanced nutrition and dietary supplements which together provide the body with both the building blocks of healthy cells and antioxidants to protect existing cells from free radical damage.

Topical Care includes esthetic facials, appropriate skin care regimens and cosmetic medical services to protect from environmental damage and dehydration while encouraging healthy cell turn-over.

Emotional Self-care offers support to reduce the impact of cell-ravaging stress and is more important today then ever with increased levels of being “tuned in” through virtual connectivity. This third prong encourages psychological and social balance by paying attention to your own needs (you are the most important person in the world!) while reinforcing healthy connections to others.

By optimizing your internal, external and emotional environments, Inclusive Health gives your body and spirit the best opportunity to thrive. Studies at the Murad Research Laboratories have demonstrated that when these three environments are optimized, people don’t merely report a perceived increase in health and happiness – wellness is objectively reflected in an increase in intracellular water.

Inclusive Health goes beyond integrative, holistic and preventative medicine to offer complete and comprehensive health renewal as predicted by The Science of Cellular Water. This approach to looking at cells is the world’s most comprehensive approach to understanding health and aging which looks at the ability of cell membranes to hold water as the fundamental marker of youthful good health.

We continue to build our theoretical and practical foundation for Inclusive Health, and to that end, have established the University for Inclusive Health to train and educate professionals in the healing arts around the globe so that they may incorporate an Inclusive Health approach into their practices and procedures.

It is my goal to see everyone living optimally at any age and take the small but important steps toward an Inclusive Healthy lifestyle.


About the Author
Howard Murad, MD, FAAD, is a trained pharmacist, Clinical Professor of Medicine at UCLA's Geffen School of Medicine, founder of Murad Skincare Inc., President of The University for Inclusive Health and a physician who specializes in both inclusive health and dermatology.He has been acclaimed as a "Beauty Genius" by ELLE magazine and an "Industry Visionary" by the International SPA Association.His research in The Science of Cellular Water has revealed the ability of cell membranes to hold water as the fundamental marker of youthful good health and offers the world's most comprehensive insights into health and aging. His advocacy of the use of dietary supplements to promote skin health has earned him international recognition as the "Father of Internal Skincare." Dr. Murad is the accomplished author of four books advocating practical lifestyle choices as the path to looking and feeling as healthy and beautiful as possible.