The plan below is designed to improve the overall appearance of your skin by supplying it with gentle, effective, and protective ingredients that have a proven track record for helping wrinkled skin look and feel better. Providing such benefits to skin on a daily basis will enhance its health and appearance, encourage collagen production, and help generate normalized skin cells, which means wrinkles can be greatly reduced! Notice I did not write "eliminated." Regrettably, there is no magic potion or combination of products in any price range that can truly make wrinkles disappear. The wrinkles you see and agonize over (not to be confused with fine lines caused by dryness—these are easily remedied with a good moisturizer) are the result of cumulative sun damage and the inevitable breakdown of the skin's natural support structure. Skin care ingredients, no matter who is selling them or the claims they assert, cannot replace what plastic surgeons or cosmetic dermatologists can do.
The basis of the following step-by-step plan is what the skin needs to repair itself and function optimally:
* A state-of-the-art sunscreen whose formula goes beyond basic sun protection. The first and foremost best defense against wrinkles is the daily use of an effective, well-formulated sunscreen rated SPF 15 or higher. Daily application of a sunscreen (be it in your moisturizer or foundation) is critical to preventing new wrinkles and keeping existing lines from deepening each year. Ignoring this fundamental principle and focusing instead on anti-aging claims (which, if they don't involve sunscreen, don't require proof of efficacy) is an open invitation for more wrinkles, skin discolorations, and potentially, skin cancer. The basics to look for are a product rated SPF 15 or higher, and make sure it has one of these ingredients listed as active to ensure adequate protection from UVA rays: avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide. Outside the United States, Mexoryl SX and Tinosorb are effective UVA-protecting ingredients. Beyond that, it is extremely beneficial if the sunscreen you choose is also loaded with antioxidants, anti-irritants, cell-communicating ingredients and ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. An abundant amount of scientific research is proving how antioxidants not only boost a sunscreen’s efficacy but also play a role in mitigating sun damage by reducing free radicals and skin inflammation that sun exposure generates. A state-of-the-art sunscreen contains not only effective UVA-protecting ingredients but also includes antioxidants and other ingredients that help skin look and feel better. In short, for optimal benefit and healing, your sunscreen needs to go beyond just deflecting ultraviolet rays; it must also work on a cellular level to prevent damage.
* Retin-A, Renova, Avita (drug name tretinoin) and Tazorac (drug name tazarotene), prescribed by your doctor or dermatologist, are still the gold standards among topical prescription products for improving the appearance of sun-damaged (wrinkled and discolored) skin. Tretinoin has the ability to return abnormal skin cell production back to some level of normalcy—think of it as the guru of cell-communicating ingredients. The result in most cases is an improvement in skin's collagen production, which makes skin smoother and offers a modest (but noticeable) decrease in the depth and appearance of wrinkles; Tazarotene is believed to work similarly to tretinoin.
* An effective AHA or BHA product. One significant consequence of sun damage is that the outer layer of skin becomes thickened, discolored, rough, and uneven. The best way to help skin shed abnormally built-up layers of dead, unhealthy skin is to use a well-formulated alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) product. Such exfoliation will not only even out skin tone it will also produce a significant improvement in the texture of skin. Another benefit is that exfoliating away accumulated layers of dead skin cells helps other products you use, particularly moisturizers, penetrate skin and be far more effective. The most researched forms of AHAs are glycolic or lactic acids. Salicylic acid is the sole BHA option. For AHAs, look for products that contain at least 5% AHA, but preferably 8-10%. If the percentage isn’t listed on the label, then the ingredient should be at the top of the ingredient list. For BHA products, 0.5% to 2% concentrations are available.
The difference in concentrations between AHAs and BHA is not a qualitative one. AHAs are not more effective or better than BHA because of the increased concentration needed for one versus the other. Rather, leave-on, daily use AHAs are effective at 5% to 10% and BHA at 1% to 2%.
If you are battling wrinkles and stubborn blemishes or blackheads, BHA is the better choice because salicylic acid can also improve the shape of the pore. Whether you choose an AHA or BHA product, it is essential that the pH of the product is between 3 and 4. This range is necessary for either ingredient to exfoliate skin. You can find products with a pH lower than 3, but these tend to be too irritating for all skin types, which negates their benefits. (When I rate skin-care products with AHA or BHA, the pH is always tested to be sure it can indeed exfoliate skin.)
* Hydroquinone-based, skin-lightening products. If sun- or hormone-induced discolorations are present, a skin-lightening product is needed. Look for one with a texture you prefer (cream, lotion, gel) that contains 1% or 2% hydroquinone. This ingredient has an abundant amount of research showing its safety and efficacy in improving the appearance of brown discolorations by inhibiting melanin production. Hydroquinone is also available in higher concentrations by prescription (an example would be TriLuma, which combines 4% hydroquinone with tretinoin and a corticosteroid). You may want to consider a skin-lightening product that also contains glycolic or salicylic acid because these exfoliants can speed up the results. Although hydroquinone has the highest efficacy and longest history of safe usage behind it, there are alternatives that have shown some promise for lightening skin, but these have been minimally researched and the results pale when compared to hydroquinone. It is interesting to point out that these alternative ingredients are, ironically, derivatives of hydroquinone. They include mitracarpus scaber extract, Uva Ursi (bearberry) extract, which contains arbutin, and forms of arbutin. Other options with some degree of research regarding their potential skin lightening abilities are kojic acid, licorice extract, azelaic acid, and stabilized vitamin C. What has not been conclusively established for most of these hydroquinone alternatives is how much is needed to obtain an effect. Compared to the extensive research concerning hydroquinone's effect on human skin, these alternatives may very well disappoint.
* Be gentle! Don't forget that gentle cleansers and products that don't contain irritating ingredients play an important part in helping your skin look better. Using a gentle, water-soluble cleanser further minimizes skin irritation, prevents moisture loss, and won't leave a skin-dulling residue. No cleanser will change a wrinkle, but cleansing skin gently and reducing irritation and inflammation helps the healing process that occurs from such products as sunscreens and tretinoin.
* A well-formulated, state-of-the-art moisturizer (serum or liquid textures if you have normal to oily or blemish-prone skin) can go a long way toward improving skin's texture, enhancing its radiance, and creating a smoother, more supple surface. A gel, cream, serum, or lotion that is loaded with antioxidants, ingredients that mimic the structure of skin, cell-communicating ingredients, and anti-irritants can generate new collagen, create normalized skin cells, and reduce further damage. Make sure the packaging will keep its beneficial ingredients stable once the product is opened. That means opaque tubes or bottles with pump applicators or small openings, and avoiding clear packaging and jars of any kind.
Because most cosmetics companies (and the cosmetics industry at large) are acutely aware of consumer desire to forestall aging and stop wrinkles in their tracks, you will repeatedly encounter products at every retail venue promising to lift, firm, and tone the skin, along with decreasing (or dramatically reducing) wrinkles via this week's miracle ingredient or complex. Don't fall for it, at least not at the expense (and it often is very expensive) of not using an effective sunscreen or considering the proven options above for improving the appearance of sun-damaged (wrinkled) skin. Almost without exception, if an anti-wrinkle claim sounds too good to be true, it probably is. That doesn't mean the product in question isn't worth considering, just that is isn't the fountain of youth so many of us are perpetually seeking.
These routines are a great way to start. Use these links for more Emerge Anti-Aging Skin Care product options:
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Battle Plans for Fighting Acne
There is very little mystery about how a pimple is created. It essentially starts with hormones causing some amount of excess oil production in the pore. For some reason, the oil cannot get out in an even flow, possibly as a result of an abnormally shaped pore. This backed up oil, along with a buildup of dead skin cells in the pore lining, form a blockage and eventually, a clogged pore. A specific type of bacteria (called propionibacterium acnes) existing in the pore thrives on the oil and dead skin cells, flourishes, and as a result causes the skin to become inflamed. The inflammation and bacteria proliferation result in a pimple.
There are limited studies looking at the role diet plays in causing and/or treating acne. For some individuals an allergic reaction to certain foods such as nuts, salmon, or dairy products can trigger inflammation in the pore, resulting in blemishes. Research indicates that dietary supplements, such as zinc or vitamin A, are most likely not effective in the treatment of acne. These supplements may very well be unhealthy if too much is taken.
For optimal results when fighting blemishes and acne:
1) Reduce oil to eliminate the environment that acne-causing bacteria thrive in.
2) Exfoliate the skin's surface and within the pore to improve the shape and function of the pore.
Please Checkout Emerge Acne Skin Care
There are limited studies looking at the role diet plays in causing and/or treating acne. For some individuals an allergic reaction to certain foods such as nuts, salmon, or dairy products can trigger inflammation in the pore, resulting in blemishes. Research indicates that dietary supplements, such as zinc or vitamin A, are most likely not effective in the treatment of acne. These supplements may very well be unhealthy if too much is taken.
For optimal results when fighting blemishes and acne:
1) Reduce oil to eliminate the environment that acne-causing bacteria thrive in.
2) Exfoliate the skin's surface and within the pore to improve the shape and function of the pore.
Please Checkout Emerge Acne Skin Care
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Getting Rid of Blackheads
A lot of people are frustrated or confused about how to win the battle against blackheads (technically called comedones) or whiteheads (technically called milia). Why all the confusion? Primarily it's because the many products claiming they can rid the face of these black dots don't work. The problem persists and often these same products don't improve conditions, but make matters worse. In reality, aside from misleading marketing claims, the truth about blackheads (usually accompanied by oily skin) and whiteheads (accompanied by either dry or oily skin) is hard to accept. What is the truth? To put it plainly, they are just hard to get rid of. It is difficult to fight clogged pores but there are things you can do.
Here's how it works: A normal functioning pore produces a normal amount of sebum (oil). When a normal amount of oil is produced, it effortlessly moves through the pore and out onto the surface of skin, where it melts into an imperceptible film forming a protective, healthy barrier over the face. The amount of oil produced is regulated almost exclusively by hormones, specifically androgens, which are the hormones that create masculine human characteristics.
When hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells are in the way, and the pore is impaired or misshapen, the path for the oil is blocked, creating a clog—a perfect environment where blackheads or/and whiteheads can occur. Further exacerbating these conditions are the use of skin-care or makeup products containing ingredients similar to the composition of sebum (human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters). All these substances are typically found in thousands of cosmetic products and they can absorb into the pore, adding to the build up of sebum. Interestingly and contrary to popular belief, the ingredients mineral oil and petrolatum cannot absorb into the pore because their molecular size is too large. Both ingredients feel greasy, especially on oily skin, but neither has been proven to clog pores or contribute to blackheads. In short, when a combination of skin cells and too much sebum are trapped inside a pore and the pore is not covered over by skin, the clog is exposed to air, causing cells and sebum to oxidize and resulting in the dark color of a blackhead. When the sebum and skin cells are inside a pore that is covered by skin, they are not exposed to air and therefore stay clear, but form a slight white bump under the skin.
The never-ending questions are: Why do some people get whiteheads and not blackheads? Why does the problem occur in some areas of the face but not others? What causes some products to make people break out but not give them blackheads? And finally, what makes some products cause blackheads but not acne? Those questions have no specific answers. It seems to be primarily a genetic predisposition accompanied by the right conditions (mentioned above) randomly taking place in any one of the thousands of pores we have on our face. Not to mention an unknown reaction to the thousands and thousands of different cosmetic ingredients we may come in contact with from the various products we use.
Other than avoiding products that are too emollient (meaning thick or greasy creams) and not using moisturizers unless you truly need them, there are really only four essentials for dealing with whiteheads and blackheads:
1) Gentle, water-soluble cleansers (and avoiding bar soap). The ingredients that keep soap in its bar form can clog pores, and irritation can cause skin cells to flake off before they're ready and accumulate in the pore. The good news is that there are lots of gentle cleansers to consider. It's actually getting more and more difficult to find a cleanser that isn't gentle. Someone with dry skin would want to use a slightly more moisturizing cleanser—but be careful: cleansers that are too emollient can contain ingredients that add to the sebum in your skin causing further problems.
2) Gentle exfoliants that can both remove the excess skin cells on the surface of the face (so they don't build up in the pore) and exfoliate inside the pore (to improve the shape of the pore, allowing a more even flow of oil through it). Keep in mind that the pore itself is lined with skin cells that can build up, creating a narrowed shape that doesn't allow for natural oil flow out of the pore. But don't get carried away with this step. Overdoing it (removing too many skin cells) can cause problems and hurt skin. Exfoliation is essential for both dry and oily skin to eliminate blackheads or whiteheads. Again, someone with dry skin will want an exfoliant that has a more moisturizing base.
The best option for a good exfoliant is a 1% or 2% BHA gel, liquid, or lotion. There are still only limited options for this one, including Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer, Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products, and Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment with 2% Salicylic Acid. If you cannot use a beta hydroxy acid, you might want to try an alpha hydroxy acid, but AHAs are not able to penetrate the pore lining and affect mostly the surface of skin. That can be helpful, but salicylic acid can absorb into the pore lining and improve conditions.
By the way, topical disinfectants such as benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics available by prescription do not help in the treatment of blackheads and milia because there is no bacterial involvement related to these conditions.
3) Deeper exfoliation treatments for stubborn blackheads and milia are options you may want to consider. Microdermabrasion, either from an at-home treatment (Neutrogena's At Home Microdermabrasion System) or the procedure performed at a doctor's office or spa are options. Also AHA or BHA peels and laser resurfacing may possibly have a positive impact on the appearance of blackheads and milia. However, the research on this is at best limited. Anecdotally, it appears to be an option. Keep in mind that none of these treatments alter hormone function or the structure of the pore, or improve pore functioning—rather, they temporarily get rid of the surface problem, making the skin look better in the short term.
4) Absorbing excess oil. This step is for those with oily skin and is not necessary for those with whiteheads and dry skin, because with dry skin the problem isn't about excess surface oil, it's only the oil trapped inside the pore. For those with oily skin, clay masks (that don't contain irritating ingredients of mint, peppermint, camphor or the like) are an option and oil-absorbing papers can also help.
5) Retinoids play an important role in successfully battling blackheads. Retinoids are forms of vitamin A that can actually help skin cells function normally and improve the shape of the pore so oil flow is normalized and clogs are far less apt to take place. The most typical and well-researched retinoids are tretinoin (found in prescription medications such as Retin-A, Renova, and Avita,), adapelene (found in the prescription drug Differin) and tazarotene (found in the prescription drug Tazorac). These can be used on their own or with a BHA product. Research has definitely established that tretinoin and adapelene have positive effects on how pores function, and these products should be a strong consideration for battling blackheads or breakouts in general.
6) Hormone blockers, birth control pills, and Accutane: For those with severe oily-skin conditions, prescription medications such as hormone blockers or certain low-dose birth-control pills can reduce hormone levels of androgens which are the cause of excess oil production. And, when all else fails, Accutane should definitely be considered. Though many doctors are reluctant to prescribe Accutane for "merely" oily skin and blackheads, for those with that kind of persistent skin problem, it does not feel like a "mere" problem in the least and Accutane can be a cure. Either way these are all options (albeit serious ones) you can talk over with your physician.
7) Removing blackheads: This isn't a pretty topic, but it is a fact of life and human nature that just leaving a blemish or blackhead alone is almost impossible. Fortunately, gently removing a blackhead or blemish with light-handed squeezing can actually help the skin. Removing the stuff inside a blackhead or especially a pimple relieves the pressure and reduces further damage. Yes, squeezing can be detrimental to the skin, but how you squeeze determines whether you inflict harm. If you oversqueeze, pinch, scrape the skin with your nails, or press too hard, you are absolutely doing more damage than good. Gentle is the key word and, when done right, squeezing with minimal pressure is the best, if not only, way to clean out a blackhead or blemish.
How not to over-squeeze? Although I never recommend steaming the face (heat can cause spider veins to surface and create irritation), a tepid to slightly warm compress over the face can help soften the blackhead or blemish, making removal easier. First, wash your face with a water-soluble cleanser. Pat the skin dry, then place a slightly warm, wet cloth over your face for about 10 to 15 minutes. Once that's done, pat the skin dry again, then using a tissue over each finger to keep you from slipping and tearing the skin, apply even, soft pressure to the sides of the blemish area, gently pressing down and then up around the lesion. Do this once or twice only. If nothing happens, that means the blemish cannot be removed, and continuing will bruise the skin, risk making the infection or lesion worse, and cause scarring. Again, only use gentle pressure, protect your skin by using tissue around your fingers, and do not over-squeeze.
What about pore strips? What has me most concerned about pore strips (which are not as widely available as they once were) is that most people don't pay attention to the warnings clearly printed on the side of the box. Pore strips are accompanied by strong warnings such as not to use them over any area other than the nose and not to use them over inflamed, swollen, sunburned, or excessively dry skin. It also states that if the strip is too painful to remove, you should wet it and then carefully remove it. What a warning! You may at first be impressed with what comes off your nose. (Well, if you have extremely superficial, noticeable black-looking blackheads, there is no question: you will be impressed.) Most people do have some oil sitting at the top of their oil glands (most of the face's oil glands are located on the nose), and whether you use these strips or a piece of tape, black dots and some skin will be removed. Is that helpful? Briefly, but if you use these repeatedly, they will not eliminate the problem and the ingredients on the strip can eventually irritate skin and potentially trigger further breakouts.
The way these strips adhere can absolutely injure or tear skin. They are especially unsafe if you've been using Retin-A, Renova, AHAs or BHA; having facial peels; taking Accutane; or if you have naturally thin skin or any skin disorder such as rosacea, psoriasis, or seborrhea.
Here's how it works: A normal functioning pore produces a normal amount of sebum (oil). When a normal amount of oil is produced, it effortlessly moves through the pore and out onto the surface of skin, where it melts into an imperceptible film forming a protective, healthy barrier over the face. The amount of oil produced is regulated almost exclusively by hormones, specifically androgens, which are the hormones that create masculine human characteristics.
When hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells are in the way, and the pore is impaired or misshapen, the path for the oil is blocked, creating a clog—a perfect environment where blackheads or/and whiteheads can occur. Further exacerbating these conditions are the use of skin-care or makeup products containing ingredients similar to the composition of sebum (human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters). All these substances are typically found in thousands of cosmetic products and they can absorb into the pore, adding to the build up of sebum. Interestingly and contrary to popular belief, the ingredients mineral oil and petrolatum cannot absorb into the pore because their molecular size is too large. Both ingredients feel greasy, especially on oily skin, but neither has been proven to clog pores or contribute to blackheads. In short, when a combination of skin cells and too much sebum are trapped inside a pore and the pore is not covered over by skin, the clog is exposed to air, causing cells and sebum to oxidize and resulting in the dark color of a blackhead. When the sebum and skin cells are inside a pore that is covered by skin, they are not exposed to air and therefore stay clear, but form a slight white bump under the skin.
The never-ending questions are: Why do some people get whiteheads and not blackheads? Why does the problem occur in some areas of the face but not others? What causes some products to make people break out but not give them blackheads? And finally, what makes some products cause blackheads but not acne? Those questions have no specific answers. It seems to be primarily a genetic predisposition accompanied by the right conditions (mentioned above) randomly taking place in any one of the thousands of pores we have on our face. Not to mention an unknown reaction to the thousands and thousands of different cosmetic ingredients we may come in contact with from the various products we use.
Other than avoiding products that are too emollient (meaning thick or greasy creams) and not using moisturizers unless you truly need them, there are really only four essentials for dealing with whiteheads and blackheads:
1) Gentle, water-soluble cleansers (and avoiding bar soap). The ingredients that keep soap in its bar form can clog pores, and irritation can cause skin cells to flake off before they're ready and accumulate in the pore. The good news is that there are lots of gentle cleansers to consider. It's actually getting more and more difficult to find a cleanser that isn't gentle. Someone with dry skin would want to use a slightly more moisturizing cleanser—but be careful: cleansers that are too emollient can contain ingredients that add to the sebum in your skin causing further problems.
2) Gentle exfoliants that can both remove the excess skin cells on the surface of the face (so they don't build up in the pore) and exfoliate inside the pore (to improve the shape of the pore, allowing a more even flow of oil through it). Keep in mind that the pore itself is lined with skin cells that can build up, creating a narrowed shape that doesn't allow for natural oil flow out of the pore. But don't get carried away with this step. Overdoing it (removing too many skin cells) can cause problems and hurt skin. Exfoliation is essential for both dry and oily skin to eliminate blackheads or whiteheads. Again, someone with dry skin will want an exfoliant that has a more moisturizing base.
The best option for a good exfoliant is a 1% or 2% BHA gel, liquid, or lotion. There are still only limited options for this one, including Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer, Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products, and Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment with 2% Salicylic Acid. If you cannot use a beta hydroxy acid, you might want to try an alpha hydroxy acid, but AHAs are not able to penetrate the pore lining and affect mostly the surface of skin. That can be helpful, but salicylic acid can absorb into the pore lining and improve conditions.
By the way, topical disinfectants such as benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics available by prescription do not help in the treatment of blackheads and milia because there is no bacterial involvement related to these conditions.
3) Deeper exfoliation treatments for stubborn blackheads and milia are options you may want to consider. Microdermabrasion, either from an at-home treatment (Neutrogena's At Home Microdermabrasion System) or the procedure performed at a doctor's office or spa are options. Also AHA or BHA peels and laser resurfacing may possibly have a positive impact on the appearance of blackheads and milia. However, the research on this is at best limited. Anecdotally, it appears to be an option. Keep in mind that none of these treatments alter hormone function or the structure of the pore, or improve pore functioning—rather, they temporarily get rid of the surface problem, making the skin look better in the short term.
4) Absorbing excess oil. This step is for those with oily skin and is not necessary for those with whiteheads and dry skin, because with dry skin the problem isn't about excess surface oil, it's only the oil trapped inside the pore. For those with oily skin, clay masks (that don't contain irritating ingredients of mint, peppermint, camphor or the like) are an option and oil-absorbing papers can also help.
5) Retinoids play an important role in successfully battling blackheads. Retinoids are forms of vitamin A that can actually help skin cells function normally and improve the shape of the pore so oil flow is normalized and clogs are far less apt to take place. The most typical and well-researched retinoids are tretinoin (found in prescription medications such as Retin-A, Renova, and Avita,), adapelene (found in the prescription drug Differin) and tazarotene (found in the prescription drug Tazorac). These can be used on their own or with a BHA product. Research has definitely established that tretinoin and adapelene have positive effects on how pores function, and these products should be a strong consideration for battling blackheads or breakouts in general.
6) Hormone blockers, birth control pills, and Accutane: For those with severe oily-skin conditions, prescription medications such as hormone blockers or certain low-dose birth-control pills can reduce hormone levels of androgens which are the cause of excess oil production. And, when all else fails, Accutane should definitely be considered. Though many doctors are reluctant to prescribe Accutane for "merely" oily skin and blackheads, for those with that kind of persistent skin problem, it does not feel like a "mere" problem in the least and Accutane can be a cure. Either way these are all options (albeit serious ones) you can talk over with your physician.
7) Removing blackheads: This isn't a pretty topic, but it is a fact of life and human nature that just leaving a blemish or blackhead alone is almost impossible. Fortunately, gently removing a blackhead or blemish with light-handed squeezing can actually help the skin. Removing the stuff inside a blackhead or especially a pimple relieves the pressure and reduces further damage. Yes, squeezing can be detrimental to the skin, but how you squeeze determines whether you inflict harm. If you oversqueeze, pinch, scrape the skin with your nails, or press too hard, you are absolutely doing more damage than good. Gentle is the key word and, when done right, squeezing with minimal pressure is the best, if not only, way to clean out a blackhead or blemish.
How not to over-squeeze? Although I never recommend steaming the face (heat can cause spider veins to surface and create irritation), a tepid to slightly warm compress over the face can help soften the blackhead or blemish, making removal easier. First, wash your face with a water-soluble cleanser. Pat the skin dry, then place a slightly warm, wet cloth over your face for about 10 to 15 minutes. Once that's done, pat the skin dry again, then using a tissue over each finger to keep you from slipping and tearing the skin, apply even, soft pressure to the sides of the blemish area, gently pressing down and then up around the lesion. Do this once or twice only. If nothing happens, that means the blemish cannot be removed, and continuing will bruise the skin, risk making the infection or lesion worse, and cause scarring. Again, only use gentle pressure, protect your skin by using tissue around your fingers, and do not over-squeeze.
What about pore strips? What has me most concerned about pore strips (which are not as widely available as they once were) is that most people don't pay attention to the warnings clearly printed on the side of the box. Pore strips are accompanied by strong warnings such as not to use them over any area other than the nose and not to use them over inflamed, swollen, sunburned, or excessively dry skin. It also states that if the strip is too painful to remove, you should wet it and then carefully remove it. What a warning! You may at first be impressed with what comes off your nose. (Well, if you have extremely superficial, noticeable black-looking blackheads, there is no question: you will be impressed.) Most people do have some oil sitting at the top of their oil glands (most of the face's oil glands are located on the nose), and whether you use these strips or a piece of tape, black dots and some skin will be removed. Is that helpful? Briefly, but if you use these repeatedly, they will not eliminate the problem and the ingredients on the strip can eventually irritate skin and potentially trigger further breakouts.
The way these strips adhere can absolutely injure or tear skin. They are especially unsafe if you've been using Retin-A, Renova, AHAs or BHA; having facial peels; taking Accutane; or if you have naturally thin skin or any skin disorder such as rosacea, psoriasis, or seborrhea.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Skin Care Tip: Overnight Blemish Repair
For those who suffer from the occasional pimple. This tip was given to me in my 20's by a friend who did part-time modeling and it never fails. I am still passing it on to friends and colleagues (even men) 40 years later. If you do not suffer from acne, you are unlikely to have skin blemish remedies on hand for that pimple, which by the way always seems to appear the day before a big social event or date.
The answer is a simple Emerge Drying Lotion on the cleansed pimple. The effect is visible overnight or at least effective enough to use concealer successfully. The product is cheap and does not have a use-by-date, so it's on hand three or six months down the line for the next "skin emergency".
The answer is a simple Emerge Drying Lotion on the cleansed pimple. The effect is visible overnight or at least effective enough to use concealer successfully. The product is cheap and does not have a use-by-date, so it's on hand three or six months down the line for the next "skin emergency".
Beauty at its Best
As we venture into 2007, let’s take a moment to look back on the products that really wowed me, based on my strict criteria coupled with the latest substantiated research.
All the skin-care items listed here truly represent the best of the best from 2006, and it is gratifying that not all of them carry prohibitive prices. One surprising point is that there was no state-of-the-art new anti-acne products launched last year. Instead, skin-lightening and “brightening” options grabbed a foothold, perhaps a testament to the reality that many baby boomers are facing: that their years of sun-tanning are finally catching up with them. What’s unfortunate about many of these types of products is they omit hydroquinone, which is still the most well-researched and effective skin-lightening agent. Regarding acne, the good news is that there are still effective over-the-counter products out there (just not new ones) to help manage this all-too-common condition, though keep in mind this is assuredly a category of products that you want to be well informed about when you shop.
The pinnacle of makeup in 2006 is almost exclusively in the realm of improved powder and silicone technology. Not only are strides in this area producing some of the silkiest textures around, but also the products that use these technologies adhere better to skin and blend beautifully, providing a polished, refined look. It is now easier than ever to find makeup products that enhance, rather than detract from, good skin. And even if your skin isn’t in its best state, the products listed here will create that illusion. Just make sure you’re doing what you can via skin-care products to improve your skin’s appearance, and to protect it from harmful influences, such as sunlight.
All the skin-care items listed here truly represent the best of the best from 2006, and it is gratifying that not all of them carry prohibitive prices. One surprising point is that there was no state-of-the-art new anti-acne products launched last year. Instead, skin-lightening and “brightening” options grabbed a foothold, perhaps a testament to the reality that many baby boomers are facing: that their years of sun-tanning are finally catching up with them. What’s unfortunate about many of these types of products is they omit hydroquinone, which is still the most well-researched and effective skin-lightening agent. Regarding acne, the good news is that there are still effective over-the-counter products out there (just not new ones) to help manage this all-too-common condition, though keep in mind this is assuredly a category of products that you want to be well informed about when you shop.
The pinnacle of makeup in 2006 is almost exclusively in the realm of improved powder and silicone technology. Not only are strides in this area producing some of the silkiest textures around, but also the products that use these technologies adhere better to skin and blend beautifully, providing a polished, refined look. It is now easier than ever to find makeup products that enhance, rather than detract from, good skin. And even if your skin isn’t in its best state, the products listed here will create that illusion. Just make sure you’re doing what you can via skin-care products to improve your skin’s appearance, and to protect it from harmful influences, such as sunlight.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Skin Care for Rosacea
Whichever method of treatment or combination therapy you and your physician decide on, it is important to take steps in your regular skin-care routine to ensure it is as gentle as possible. For those with rosacea, reducing any risk of irritation or sensitizing reactions will help reduce the risk of flare-ups and exacerbations. Fragrance- and irritant-free products are paramount but avoiding topical scrubs, washcloths, at-home facial peels, products containing alcohol, hot water, or steam rooms can also be significant. Generally speaking, it is best for those with rosacea to stick with the basics:
Gentle, non-drying water-soluble cleanser (absolutely no bar soap or bar cleansers)
Sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher containing the active ingredients of titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide (other sunscreen agents can prove irritating). Those with rosacea and oily skin may find using a foundation and pressed powder with sunscreen is a great alternative.
Moisturizer formulated with antioxidants and barrier-protecting ingredients (to improve skin function).
Salicylic acid (BHA) exfoliant.**
Until your rosacea is under control, you may want to avoid all sources of flare-ups, including strenuous exercise, cooking over a hot stove, spending too much time outdoors when the weather is summer-hot or winter-cold, alcohol consumption, or anything that causes your skin to feel hot and redden. Many patients find it helpful to keep a diary of their rosacea triggers, and that includes noting what causes their flare-ups or reactions to skin care and cosmetics used. As much as possible, try to minimize sources of stress; you may want to consider alternative methods of stress control, including meditation and controlled, focused breathing. Talk to your dermatologist about which over-the-counter, anti-inflammatory medications (aspirin, naproxen, ibuprofen) may be suitable for calming flare-ups.Ingredients to AvoidWhile it is almost impossible to list all of the ingredients that can potentially trigger reactions for those with rosacea, the following is a good general list to consider. Keep in mind that not everyone reacts the same to any of these elements:
Acetone
Alcohol or SD alcohol followed by a number (Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are standard, benign, waxlike cosmetic thickening agents and are completely nonirritating.)
Ammonia
Arnica
Ascorbic acid
Balm mint
Balsam
Bentonite
Benzalkonium chloride
Bergamot
Camphor
Chamomile
Cinnamon
Citrus juices and oils (such as grapefruit or orange)
Clove
Clover blossom
Cocoa butter
Coriander
Cornstarch
Eucalyptus
Fennel
Fennel oil
Fir needle
Fragrances of any kind
Geranium
Horsetail
Lavender
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Marjoram
Melissa
Menthol
Mint
Oak bark
Papaya
Peppermint
Phenol
Sandalwood oil
SD alcohol, ethanol alcohol or isopropyl alcohol
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Thyme
Wintergreen
Witch hazel
Ylang-ylang
The Rosacea Review, an online newsletter of the National Rosacea Society, at www.rosacea.org/rr/, is an excellent source for detailed and ongoing information concerning treatment and research for rosacea. *As effective as an oral antibiotic can be when you begin taking it, after a period of time bacteria can become immune to the antibiotic, causing symptoms to return. Most of the research about antibiotic bacteria-resistance is based on research regarding other uses such as acne and infections. Whether or not this is a concern for rosacea should be discussed with your physician. **BHA is an interesting option for rosacea, not only does it exfoliate skin and improve pore function, it has anti-inflammatory action (due to its relationship to aspirin—acetyl salicylic acid), which may help reduce the facial redness caused by the papules and pustules that can accompany rosacea. BHA also has antimicrobial properties that can reduce the presence of the microbe thought to be causing the problem. Just like any other rosacea therapy, salicylic acid won't work for everyone (indeed, some rosacea patients find it intolerable)
Gentle, non-drying water-soluble cleanser (absolutely no bar soap or bar cleansers)
Sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher containing the active ingredients of titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide (other sunscreen agents can prove irritating). Those with rosacea and oily skin may find using a foundation and pressed powder with sunscreen is a great alternative.
Moisturizer formulated with antioxidants and barrier-protecting ingredients (to improve skin function).
Salicylic acid (BHA) exfoliant.**
Until your rosacea is under control, you may want to avoid all sources of flare-ups, including strenuous exercise, cooking over a hot stove, spending too much time outdoors when the weather is summer-hot or winter-cold, alcohol consumption, or anything that causes your skin to feel hot and redden. Many patients find it helpful to keep a diary of their rosacea triggers, and that includes noting what causes their flare-ups or reactions to skin care and cosmetics used. As much as possible, try to minimize sources of stress; you may want to consider alternative methods of stress control, including meditation and controlled, focused breathing. Talk to your dermatologist about which over-the-counter, anti-inflammatory medications (aspirin, naproxen, ibuprofen) may be suitable for calming flare-ups.Ingredients to AvoidWhile it is almost impossible to list all of the ingredients that can potentially trigger reactions for those with rosacea, the following is a good general list to consider. Keep in mind that not everyone reacts the same to any of these elements:
Acetone
Alcohol or SD alcohol followed by a number (Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are standard, benign, waxlike cosmetic thickening agents and are completely nonirritating.)
Ammonia
Arnica
Ascorbic acid
Balm mint
Balsam
Bentonite
Benzalkonium chloride
Bergamot
Camphor
Chamomile
Cinnamon
Citrus juices and oils (such as grapefruit or orange)
Clove
Clover blossom
Cocoa butter
Coriander
Cornstarch
Eucalyptus
Fennel
Fennel oil
Fir needle
Fragrances of any kind
Geranium
Horsetail
Lavender
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Marjoram
Melissa
Menthol
Mint
Oak bark
Papaya
Peppermint
Phenol
Sandalwood oil
SD alcohol, ethanol alcohol or isopropyl alcohol
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Thyme
Wintergreen
Witch hazel
Ylang-ylang
The Rosacea Review, an online newsletter of the National Rosacea Society, at www.rosacea.org/rr/, is an excellent source for detailed and ongoing information concerning treatment and research for rosacea. *As effective as an oral antibiotic can be when you begin taking it, after a period of time bacteria can become immune to the antibiotic, causing symptoms to return. Most of the research about antibiotic bacteria-resistance is based on research regarding other uses such as acne and infections. Whether or not this is a concern for rosacea should be discussed with your physician. **BHA is an interesting option for rosacea, not only does it exfoliate skin and improve pore function, it has anti-inflammatory action (due to its relationship to aspirin—acetyl salicylic acid), which may help reduce the facial redness caused by the papules and pustules that can accompany rosacea. BHA also has antimicrobial properties that can reduce the presence of the microbe thought to be causing the problem. Just like any other rosacea therapy, salicylic acid won't work for everyone (indeed, some rosacea patients find it intolerable)
Sun Bathers Skin Care
Emerge Labs has launched an anti-aging cream formulated to help repair skin damage specifically caused by sunbathing, in a move that aims to bridge the gap between maintaining a tan and preventing the sun damage that can lead to wrinkling.
The new peptide-based formula, which is being launched as the sun tanning season in the Northern hemisphere gets into full swing, claims to be effective in three different ways, being able to repair sun damage, moisturize, whilst also extending the duration of a sun tan.
The company says it has developed the product because so many people are tempted by the ‘Golden Glow’, yet increasing awareness of the damage excessive sun worshipping can do to the skin is prompting more and more individuals to not only protect themselves with sunscreens, but also to pay more attention to skin care following sun exposure.
Emerge Organic Skin Lightener With SPF 30 was created with Sun Bathers in mind” stated Cleo Londono, product development team leader.
Emerge Labs company points out the fact that 80 per cent of sun damage actually occurs before the age of 18, which means that for the majority of people the formulation will be useful to help repair damage.
The new peptide-based formula, which is being launched as the sun tanning season in the Northern hemisphere gets into full swing, claims to be effective in three different ways, being able to repair sun damage, moisturize, whilst also extending the duration of a sun tan.
The company says it has developed the product because so many people are tempted by the ‘Golden Glow’, yet increasing awareness of the damage excessive sun worshipping can do to the skin is prompting more and more individuals to not only protect themselves with sunscreens, but also to pay more attention to skin care following sun exposure.
Emerge Organic Skin Lightener With SPF 30 was created with Sun Bathers in mind” stated Cleo Londono, product development team leader.
Emerge Labs company points out the fact that 80 per cent of sun damage actually occurs before the age of 18, which means that for the majority of people the formulation will be useful to help repair damage.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Acne Skin Care Treatment - 5 Useful Tips
The face is the most exposed part in a person's body. Taking care of the skin is essential to looking good. Knowing proper acne skin care treatment can help you banish this unsightly problem to make you feel better about yourself.
Following these simple tips can help you get rid of those unwanted acne fast.
1. Emerge Medicated Daily facial cleaning clears away dirt and bacteria that causes irritation to the skin. Using a mild cleanser to gently wash away dead skin cells and grime will help your skin in its goal to achieving a smoother, clearer face. When washing the face, always remember to be very gentle. If you have to scrub the face then do it very gently. Scrubbing may result to irritated skin, which can then spread the bacteria making the acne worse.
2. Watching what you eat also helps in your acne skin care treatment. Fruits and vegetables are very good sources of Vitamin C and A, which helps clear the skin and improves its appearance. Drinking eight glasses of water everyday to flushes out toxins that are harmful to the skin. These methods are not only good for your health and skin; they are also inexpensive ways for your acne skin care treatment.
3. Doctors are available for a reason. Consulting with your doctor helps in your acne skin care treatment because they know what you must do in order to prevent acne. Your doctor to prevent further damage to the skin must review all acne skin care treatments or products. Harsh chemicals from certain products may cause irritation and swelling. In addition, if you plan on using natural remedies as your acne skin care treatment, your doctor must be aware of what you are going to use. You may never know but you may be allergic to a certain product.
4. Facials are not only meant for the pampered and the rich. Facials can help you clear acne and prevent them from spreading or coming back. Facials deep clean the skin and pores, which can get rid of excess oil and dirt.
5. Keep your hands to yourself! Excessive touching of the cause can cause irritation of acne. It is also possible for the acne to spread if you keep touching the face with dirty hands. It is very tempting to touch an acne prone skin especially if you are very conscious, however, the effects in the long run is far more damaging and it may become infected making it more difficult to clear your skin.
Acne is an inevitable force of nature. The hormones in the body, which makes getting acne unavoidable, cause the outbreaks of those unwanted spots on the skin. Early prevention, a healthy lifestyle and proper hygiene are the most important acne skin care treatments to keep your face clear without being afraid of the mirror.
Following these simple tips can help you get rid of those unwanted acne fast.
1. Emerge Medicated Daily facial cleaning clears away dirt and bacteria that causes irritation to the skin. Using a mild cleanser to gently wash away dead skin cells and grime will help your skin in its goal to achieving a smoother, clearer face. When washing the face, always remember to be very gentle. If you have to scrub the face then do it very gently. Scrubbing may result to irritated skin, which can then spread the bacteria making the acne worse.
2. Watching what you eat also helps in your acne skin care treatment. Fruits and vegetables are very good sources of Vitamin C and A, which helps clear the skin and improves its appearance. Drinking eight glasses of water everyday to flushes out toxins that are harmful to the skin. These methods are not only good for your health and skin; they are also inexpensive ways for your acne skin care treatment.
3. Doctors are available for a reason. Consulting with your doctor helps in your acne skin care treatment because they know what you must do in order to prevent acne. Your doctor to prevent further damage to the skin must review all acne skin care treatments or products. Harsh chemicals from certain products may cause irritation and swelling. In addition, if you plan on using natural remedies as your acne skin care treatment, your doctor must be aware of what you are going to use. You may never know but you may be allergic to a certain product.
4. Facials are not only meant for the pampered and the rich. Facials can help you clear acne and prevent them from spreading or coming back. Facials deep clean the skin and pores, which can get rid of excess oil and dirt.
5. Keep your hands to yourself! Excessive touching of the cause can cause irritation of acne. It is also possible for the acne to spread if you keep touching the face with dirty hands. It is very tempting to touch an acne prone skin especially if you are very conscious, however, the effects in the long run is far more damaging and it may become infected making it more difficult to clear your skin.
Acne is an inevitable force of nature. The hormones in the body, which makes getting acne unavoidable, cause the outbreaks of those unwanted spots on the skin. Early prevention, a healthy lifestyle and proper hygiene are the most important acne skin care treatments to keep your face clear without being afraid of the mirror.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Metamorphosis Day Spa New York
I have been to Metamorphosis Day Spa in New York several times and every time I have been there, I never found anything to complain about. I have had many facials, massages and waxing services and Metamorphosis is a great place to have these services done. Just do not be surprised of the size of this place. The staff is very knowledgeable and extremely friendly and capable. After my facial, my face was so clear and my skin felt great. I would recommend Metamorphosis Day Spa to anyone.
Wrinkle Relaxer Ingredient
The quest for a Botox alternative is a popular pursuit among both skin care manufacturers and consumers. While Botox is highly effective in reducing motion wrinkles, it is expensive, requires physician-administered injections, and occasionally leads to side effects, such as droopy eyelids (see our article on Botox for details). Not surprisingly, products touted as Botox alternatives keep popping up. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argireline) is one of the seemingly promising new Botox alternatives.
Argireline is manufactured by a Spanish company Lipotec and is a hexapeptide (a chain of 6 amino acids) attached to the acetic acid residue. It is believed to work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters. When applied to the skin, Argireline supposedly relaxes facial tension leading to the reduction in facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. This remotely resembles the effect of Botox, which reduces facial tension and movement by paralyzing facial muscles. Note that Argireline is unrelated in its physiologic effect and mechanism of action to other bioactive skin peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide.
So far, the evidence to support the benefits of Argireline is skimpy at best. In a clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, acetyl hexapeptide-3 at a 10% concentration has been shown to reduce the depth of wrinkles up to 30% after 30 days of use. There are no other credible clinical studies to be found. The benefits and adverse effects of long-term use, if any, are unknown.
Is it worth a try? The rationale behind Argireline is plausible enough and eventually it may be validated by research as a safe and effective wrinkle fighter. However, at this point neither its effectiveness nor safety can be considered even tentatively proven. Besides, Argireline-based products are not particularly cheap, even compared to Botox. However, I am not sure if their prices reflect a large novelty-hype premium or high costs of the concentrated (10% or more is required) active ingredient. If it's the former, the prices may eventually decline.
There is one more concern worth mentioning. Botox injections target specific muscles, whereas Argireline (if it indeed works) is likely to relax most of your face. And while Argireline may reduce wrinkles, it may also, in theory, increase facial sag because the neurotransmitters whose release Argireline inhibits, help maintain facial firmness. Notably, a popular firming skin care ingredient DMAE firms by stimulating the release of neurotransmitters and increasing facial tension, i.e. by producing roughly the opposite effect to Argireline. Whether Argireline may indeed contribute to facial sag has not been studied. Until more is known, people prone to facial sag should approach Argireline with caution and monitor their facial firmness while on it.
Argireline is manufactured by a Spanish company Lipotec and is a hexapeptide (a chain of 6 amino acids) attached to the acetic acid residue. It is believed to work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters. When applied to the skin, Argireline supposedly relaxes facial tension leading to the reduction in facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. This remotely resembles the effect of Botox, which reduces facial tension and movement by paralyzing facial muscles. Note that Argireline is unrelated in its physiologic effect and mechanism of action to other bioactive skin peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide.
So far, the evidence to support the benefits of Argireline is skimpy at best. In a clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, acetyl hexapeptide-3 at a 10% concentration has been shown to reduce the depth of wrinkles up to 30% after 30 days of use. There are no other credible clinical studies to be found. The benefits and adverse effects of long-term use, if any, are unknown.
Is it worth a try? The rationale behind Argireline is plausible enough and eventually it may be validated by research as a safe and effective wrinkle fighter. However, at this point neither its effectiveness nor safety can be considered even tentatively proven. Besides, Argireline-based products are not particularly cheap, even compared to Botox. However, I am not sure if their prices reflect a large novelty-hype premium or high costs of the concentrated (10% or more is required) active ingredient. If it's the former, the prices may eventually decline.
There is one more concern worth mentioning. Botox injections target specific muscles, whereas Argireline (if it indeed works) is likely to relax most of your face. And while Argireline may reduce wrinkles, it may also, in theory, increase facial sag because the neurotransmitters whose release Argireline inhibits, help maintain facial firmness. Notably, a popular firming skin care ingredient DMAE firms by stimulating the release of neurotransmitters and increasing facial tension, i.e. by producing roughly the opposite effect to Argireline. Whether Argireline may indeed contribute to facial sag has not been studied. Until more is known, people prone to facial sag should approach Argireline with caution and monitor their facial firmness while on it.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Emerge Skin Care
Since I'm going to be 36 this coming October, I've started looking into skin care products not only for my face but for all over too. There are so many out there that I just don't know which ones to try. I've even asked friends which ones they use and then tried them. But because everyone's skin types are different, it doesn't always work for me like it would on someone else. So I gave up for a while until I came across Emerge Skin Care Inc.. Their products are natural and free from synthetic chemicals, fragrances and preservatives. I have very oily skin, so I need a product like that. Their products have also been formulated, tested and used by some leading physicians around the world. These physicians have used the products to treat skin related problems. Emerge Skin Care products are based on the medical knowledge of how substances interact and how they can affect the skin.
I was looking around their web site and am really interested in their sun care products. Skin cancer is big on my dad's side of the family and being I have fair, freckled skin, I need to really watch it. I have spots on my face right now that I'm a bit worried about. I also looked at their anti-aging products and think I'm going to try some. I really need the eye cream. I'm getting crows feet (is that what those wrinkles around the eye are called?). I also saw they have some mens skin care products too. Sean works outside in the sun all day and I'm always on him to start using sunblock and lotion. Maybe if I just buy it for him he'll use it! What I like too about the site is that you can get some mini free samples of some of their products such as Emerge eye firming gel, the Emerge intensive hydrating serum, the moisturizing protection SPF 30 and the Emerge therapeutic acne moisturizer all for .01 cent each! That's awesome that they let you try those out first before buying the bigger bottles and bigger quantities.
I was looking around their web site and am really interested in their sun care products. Skin cancer is big on my dad's side of the family and being I have fair, freckled skin, I need to really watch it. I have spots on my face right now that I'm a bit worried about. I also looked at their anti-aging products and think I'm going to try some. I really need the eye cream. I'm getting crows feet (is that what those wrinkles around the eye are called?). I also saw they have some mens skin care products too. Sean works outside in the sun all day and I'm always on him to start using sunblock and lotion. Maybe if I just buy it for him he'll use it! What I like too about the site is that you can get some mini free samples of some of their products such as Emerge eye firming gel, the Emerge intensive hydrating serum, the moisturizing protection SPF 30 and the Emerge therapeutic acne moisturizer all for .01 cent each! That's awesome that they let you try those out first before buying the bigger bottles and bigger quantities.
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